Dragonfly restaurant builds it in the pan

By MIKE COOK

Las Cruces Bulletin

Editor's note: The review in the Sept. 15 print edition of the Bulletin should have said the restaurant is open every day from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

You know how you find yourself moaning a bit because the food you’re eating is so good?

Then you remember that you’re in a restaurant, and you look around to make sure no one heard you?

The newly opened Dragonfly Restaurant at the corner of Main Street and Griggs Avenue, across Main from the Plaza de Las Cruces.

That was my experience on Thursday, Sept. 7, as I had my first meal at the newly opened Dragonfly restaurant at 139 Main St., across the street from the downtown plaza.

Dragonfly bills itself as a farm-to-table operation, sourcing local produce and humanely raised meat.

I knew from their Facebook menu that Dragonfly had gluten-free bread, but I had no idea how excellent their gluten-free hamburger bun would be. It’s probably the best I’ve ever eaten.

The burger itself was generous in size, perfectly cooked and garnished with a fabulous layer of Muenster cheese. Excellent!

Hamburger, done medium well, on a gluten-free bun, with Muenster cheese and French fries on the side.

The French fries were the perfect side dish, cooked exactly as I like them.

And the dessert – oh my!

Before I ordered, I heard someone near the kitchen mention “verbal menu items,” including crème brulee. That’s what’s I was going to have as a post-prandial delight until my waiter, Mike, told me about a chocolate mousse-like dessert item called potée crème.

It comes in a small glass cup, but don’t be fooled. With a dab of whipped cream, it is a rich and satisfying final course.

With the addition of iced tea, the price tag for this bountiful fare was $19.50. It was worth every penny.

Mike provided excellent service. I was going to critique his choice of pro football teams (he’s a Cowboys fan, of course), but then I chatted with a delightful staff member who is a fellow Chiefs fan, so all was forgiven.

If everything at Dragonfly is as good as what I had – and I bet it is – this restaurant will be what its location at the corner of Griggs and Main has been waiting for. I know I will be going back.

The menu also includes a variety of sandwiches, including a Quinoa burger, grilled cheese, a BLT and a BBQ Chicken Sammy; a wealth of salads (you can add chicken, salmon, steak or shrimp to all of them) and appetizers with cool names like Frites, Arancini and Beef Napoleon.

Entrees include Ron’s Fish Street Tacos, Dragonfly Hot Brown (a sliced farmer’s steak), roasted chicken, pasta primavera and New Mexico Mac ‘n’ Cheese.

Sides, in addition to French fries, include mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables, avocado and bacon.

Menu add-ons range from New Mexico chile and caramelized onions to a fried egg and the Dragonfly signature sauces.

The kids’ menu includes a mac ‘n cheese slider and grilled cheese.

They serve soft drinks, crafted juices and flavors (I can’t wait to try one), coffee and tea (including mint). Beer and wine are planned.

Dragonfly meals are “built in the pan,” to quote the menu, which means they can add or omit any ingredients you want. So, most items can be made gluten free (yes!), vegetarian or vegan.

I was greeted by six different staff members in the restaurant, including Ron, the chef. I felt welcomed and well-served.

Dragonfly is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

In his 1842 poem “The Two Voices,” Alfred Lord Tennyson described a dragonfly as emerging like “sapphire mail” from its old husk. Let’s hope that this new Dragonfly will emerge as one of the new and sparkling jewels of downtown.

For more information, call 575-353-9866. Their Facebook page includes the restaurant menu. Their website, dragonflylc.com, is under construction, but you can use it now to subscribe to their mailing list.

Mike Cook may be reached at mike@lascrucesbulletin.com.